Monday 21 November 2011

Half Term Adventures part 2

Dolphins

Another boat trip this time out to the dolphin reef.
As a group disembarks the boat we are to climb aboard I enquire whether they have seen the dolphins, "not today," they reply. We set off with three friendly families we have met here. It's always exciting for me leaving the dry land and venturing off into water. I have great memories of my time as a volunteer onboard 'Cockney Spirit' a 40 foot, two mast ketch used to take young, disadvantaged people on sailing holidays. It was a Christian project working as a Charitable Trust and made my love for the sea and sailing as concrete as the hull the boat was made from. I had a fantastic nine months with the charity in 1994.
We power about two miles out to sea, then sleek, grey black fins appear in the near distance. One, then two, then three and four. Much excitement from us adults and the children alike. We chase after them and they frolic and arch, creating bubbles and froth near the boat. Up and then down almost copying the boat as it bobs on the surface. They swim so close, so fast, enjoying the engine as it churns up a wake. Our driver knows exactly what they like and when he has enticed them he cuts the engine off so it's silent apart from our shrieks of delight as they play hide and seek with us, now you see us, now you don't. Smiling and happy are the dolphins, as are we. Under water they illuminate and become silvery green. It's so magical and beautiful I don't want it to end. When you look carefully you see the jagged edges on their fins, small scrapes and scars on their bodies. Just like us they are imperfect, yet still very special and unique. The next thing I know we share the same sea and swim in their space. This time I dived into the deeper, darker water, not as nervous now. They don't come near and even though I know they are only dolphins three things immediately come to mind:
1. Dead Calm-film
2.'Dead in the water,' song by David Gray
3. Jaws-film


I think I stay alive in the water for 10 minutes, before climbing back onboard.


All too soon we return to shore, all of us so happy having seen these lovely creatures enjoying their natural habitat, between Qatar and Saudi Arabia. I can't help but feel blessed because we have been out three times on this boat and every time we have seen the dolphins. Some people have been here four years and still not seen them.


Souq wakif

The number 1 thing to do in Doha according to the Lonely Planet Guide. Does this mean I can come home now? Of course not. Not until I have had a ride on a grumpy, spitting, hump backed camel and got the photo to prove it!
The Souq was once a weekend trading area for the Bedouin, I discover from the Marhaba, Qatar's premier information guide book 2011. It certainly is an amazing place to visit and I already want to go back at night when it is all light up and more hustling and bustling. We arrive in need of toilets, I always need the toilet even after a relatively smooth car journey. I ended up in the male public conveniences for some reason and at least two other men came in while I was relieving myself. I flushed and peeked through the door, Nigel told me to wait. Gulp. I tried again to escape, again he ushered me back. Yikes, I was starting to panic! A day stuck in the toilets would not be very pleasant or my number 1 thing to do in Doha. Third time lucky, I held my breath and waltzed out doubly relieved.
We found ourselves in the animal section which was a most bizarre and disturbing experience given that the day before we had seen the dolphins swimming freely. All the animals were in small cages apart from some out on display stands. There were brightly plumed macaws, orange and yellow canaries, rabbits upon rabbits, puppies, quail, terrapins, toads, mice and wait for it, fluffy dyed pink, yellow, orange and green chicks up to 30 or so in cages! This seemed doubly unfair especially as there were plenty of pigeons flying free above, perching on the wooden beams and ledges of their choice. They were lucky to be born free I suppose.
As we walked through the labyrinths of narrow passages, each turn brought new sights and smells, bright coloured cloth, incense and spices, pots, pans, pictures, sunglasses, hats, pashminas.
There were older men with identity tags on carting wheel barrows full of purchases. We didn't employ one but I wanted to scoop up one tired, frail man put him in the wheel barrow and give him a rest and ride, like my dad did to me when I was a child. 
There was a very cosmopolitan feel to the restaurant area, and there were many Qatari men in full white robes with red and white checked tea towels on their heads. How do they stay so immaculate all day long? With our varying shades of gingerness and freckled faces we stand out like pigs in blankets in a pork free society. But we are accepted and respected here.
We sit outside a Lebanese restaurant. I order coffee, Nigel has tea. Joshua has fresh orange and Eleanor has hot chocolate in the daytime heat of 30 degrees or so? The tea comes in a handle-less glass and is black. When we ask for milk we get a quirky look from the waiter and I explain with open arms and a shrug that we are in fact English. He returns with a white, porcelain gravy boat, full of hot milk as if to make a drama out of a near crisis.
We also decide to try a Shisha pipe as everyone else seemed to be doing it and when in Rome and all that. The gravy boat milkman suggests the grape and mint flavour of nicotine free tobacco is very good. Nigel seems to take to the pipe very well! I feel like Sandra Dee from Grease coughing and choking after one inhalation of the pipe. Young and old men and women all seem to enjoy puffing away on these snake charm like pipes. I'll just stick to drinking in the atmosphere and coffee, thanks.

I'm posting this on the significant last day of my 30's!

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